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Wind-induced changes to shoaling surface gravity wave shape

Thomas Zdyrski* and Falk Feddersen

  • Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California, San Diego, La Jolla, California 92092-0209, USA

  • *tzdyrski@ucsd.edu
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Phys. Rev. Fluids 7, 074802 – Published 13 July, 2022

DOI: https://doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevFluids.7.074802

Abstract

Unforced shoaling waves experience growth and changes to wave shape. Similarly, wind-forced waves on a flat-bottom likewise experience growth/decay and changes to wave shape. However, the combined effect of shoaling and wind-forcing on wave shape, particularly relevant in the near-shore environment, has not yet been investigated theoretically. Here, we consider small-amplitude, shallow-water solitary waves propagating up a gentle, planar bathymetry forced by a weak, Jeffreys-type wind-induced surface pressure. We derive a variable-coefficient Korteweg–de Vries–Burgers (vKdV–B) equation governing the wave profile's evolution and solve it numerically using a Runge-Kutta third-order finite difference solver. The simulations run until convective prebreaking—a Froude number limit appropriate to the order of the vKdV–B equation. Offshore winds weakly enhance the ratio of prebreaking height to depth as well as prebreaking wave slope. Onshore winds have a strong impact on narrowing the wave peak, and wind also modulates the rear shelf formed behind the wave. Furthermore, wind strongly affects the width of the prebreaking zone, with larger effects for smaller beach slopes. After converting our pressure magnitudes to physically realistic wind speeds, we observe qualitative agreement with prior laboratory and numerical experiments on breakpoint location. Additionally, our numerical results have qualitatively similar temporal wave shape to shoaling and wind-forced laboratory observations, suggesting that the vKdV–B equation captures the essential aspects of wind-induced effects on shoaling wave shape. Finally, we isolate the wind's effect by comparing the wave profiles to the unforced case. This reveals that the numerical results are approximately a superposition of a solitary wave, a shoaling-induced shelf, and a wind-induced, bound, dispersive, and decaying tail.

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Phys. Rev. Fluids 7, 074802– Published 13 July, 2022
  • Received 5 March 2022
  • Accepted 16 June 2022
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