- Access by Xinjiang University
Spatially evolving regular water wave under the action of steady wind forcing
Phys. Rev. Fluids 6, 034802 – Published 19 March, 2021
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevFluids.6.034802
Abstract
Detailed investigation of spatial evolution of mechanically generated regular water waves in a wind-wave tank under the action of steady wind is carried out. Deterministic waves are excited by a wavemaker driven at a range of frequencies and wavemaker displacement amplitudes. Prolonged measurements of the temporal variation of the instantaneous surface elevation carried out at multiple locations along the test section at numerous airflow rates enable obtaining reliable statistical parameters characterizing the wave-field evolution. Particular attention is given to the development along the tank of the wave frequency spectra as a result of wind input and interaction of the deterministic mechanical and the random wind waves. The interrelation between the regular and the random parts of the resulting wave field is studied in detail using auto- and cross-covariance analysis. Spatial coherence of the wave field is evaluated as a function of frequency for different wavemaker operation parameters and wind. The accumulated results allow us to draw conclusions regarding the effect of the high-frequency waves at short fetches evolving under the action of wind-wave field at more remote locations.
Physics Subject Headings (PhySH)
Article Text
References (49)
- L. Cavaleri, S. Abdalla, A. Benetazzo, L. Bertotti, J. R. Bidlot, Ø Breivik, S. Carniel, R. E. Jensen, J. Portilla-Yandun, W. E. Rogers et al., Wavemodelling in coastal and inner seas, Progr. Oceanogr. 167, 164 (2018).
- D. Liberzon and L. Shemer, Experimental study of the initial stages of wind waves spatial evolution, J. Fluid Mech. 681, 462 (2011).
- A. Zavadsky, A. Benetazzo, and L. Shemer, On the two-dimensional structure short gravity waves in a wind wave tank, Phys. Fluids 29, 016601 (2017).
- L. Shemer, On evolution of young wind-waves in time and space, Atmosphere 10, 562 (2019).
- S. A. Kitaigorodskii, Application of the theory of similarity to the analysis of wind generated wave motion as a stochastic process, Bull. Acad. Sci. USSR, Geophys. Ser. Engl. Transl. N1, 73 (1962).
- H. Mitsuyasu, On the growth of the spectrum of wind generated waves I, Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech. Kyushu Univ. 16, 459 (1968).
- H. Mitsuyasu and T. Honda, Wind-induced growth of water waves, J. Fluid. Mech. 123, 425 (1982).
- A. Zavadsky, D. Liberzon, and L. Shemer, Statistical analysis of the spatial evolution of the stationary wind wave field, J. Phys. Oceanogr. 43, 65 (2013).
- S. I. Badulin, A.V. Babanin, V. E. Zakharov, and D. Resio, Weakly turbulent laws of wind-wave growth, J. Fluid Mech. 591, 339 (2007).
- V. E. Zakharov, S. I. Badulin, V. V. Geogjaev, and A. N. Pushkarev, Weak-turbulent theory of wind-driven sea, Earth Space Sci. 6, 540 (2019).
- H. Mitsuyasu, Interactions between water waves and wind (I). Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech. Kyushu Univ. 14, 67 (1966).
- O. M. Phillips and M. L. Banner, Wave breaking in the presence of wind drift and swell, J. Fluid Mech. 66, 625 (1974).
- M. Donelan, The effect of swell on the growth of wind waves. Johns Hopkins APL Technical Digest 8, 18 (1987).
- G. Chen and S. E. Belcher, Effects of Long Waves on Wind-Generated Waves., J. Phys. Oceanogr. 30, 2246 (2000).
- T. Bailey, L. Ross, M. Bryant, and D. Bryant, Predicting Wind Wave Suppression on Irregular Long Waves, J. Marine Sci. Eng. 8, 619 (2020).
- T. Waseda and M. P. Tulin, Experimental study of the stability of deep-water wave trains including wind effects, J. Fluid Mech. 401, 55 (1999).
- G. Caulliez, V. Makin, and V. Kudryavtsev, Drag of the water surface at very short fetches: Observations and modeling, J. Phys. Oceanogr. 38, 2038 (2008).
- D. Masson, On the nonlinear coupling between swell and wind waves, J. Phys. Oceanogr. 23, 1249 (1993).
- I. R. Young, Directional spectra of hurricane wind waves, J. Geophys. Res. 111, C08020 (2006).
- C. L. Vincent, H. C. Graber, and C. O. Collins lll, Effect of swell on Wind Stress for Light to Moderate Winds, J. Atmos. Sci. 77, 3759 (2020).
- L. Grare, W. L. Peirson, H. Branger, J. W. Walker, J. P. Giovanangeli, and V. K. Makin, Growth and dissipation of wind-forced, deep water waves, J. Fluid Mech. 722, 5 (2013).
- M. Buckley, F. Veron, and K. Yousefi, Surface viscous stress over wind-driven waves with intermittent airflow separation, J. Fluid Mech. 905, A31 (2020).
- K. Yousefi, F. Veron, and P. Buckley, Momentum flux measurements in the airflow over wind-generated surface wave, J. Fluid Mech. 895, A15 (2020).
- M. Hatori, M. Tokuda, and Y. Toba, Experimental study on strong interaction between regular waves and wind waves, J. Oceanogr. Soc. Jpn. 37, 111 (1981).
- Y. Imai, M. Hatori, M. Tokuda, and Y. Toba, Experimental study on strong interaction between regular waves and wind waves-ii, J. Oceanogr. Soc. Jpn. 28, 87 (1981).
- M. Hatori and Y. Toba, Transition of mechanically generated regular waves to wind waves under the action of wind, J. Fluid Mech. 130, 397 (1983).
- L. Shemer, S. K. Singh, and A. Chernyshova, Spatial evolution of young wind-waves: Numerical modeling verified by experiment, J. Fluid Mech. 901, A22 (2020).
- V. E. Zakharov, Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of deep fluid, J. Appl. Mech. Tech. Phys. 9, 190 (1968).
- A. Zavadsky and L. Shemer, Characterization of turbulent airflow over evolving water-waves in a wind-wave tank, J. Geophys. Res. 117, C00J19 (2012).
- A. Zavadsky and L. Shemer, Measurements of waves in a wind-wave tank under steady and time-varying wind forcing, J. Vis. Exp. 132, 56480 (2018).
- A. Ramamonjiarisoa and M. Coantic, Loi experimentale de dispersion des vagues produites par le vent sur une faible longueur d'action, C. R. Acad. Sci. 282, 111 (1976).
- A. Khait and L. Shemer, Nonlinear wave generation by the wavemaker in deep to intermediate water depth, Ocean Eng. 182, 222 (2019).
- V. P. Krasitskii, On the reduced equations in the Hamiltonian theory of weakly nonlinear surface waves, J. Fluid Mech. 272, 1 (1994).
- M. Stiassnie and L. Shemer, Energy computations for coupled evolution of class I and class II instabilities of stokes waves, J. Fluid Mech. 174, 299 (1987).
- H. A. Schaffer, Second-order wavemaker theory for irregular waves, Ocean Eng. 23, 47 (1996).
- E. Kit, L. Shemer, E. Pelinovsky, T. Talipova, O. Eitan, and H. Jiao, Nonlinear wave group evolution in shallow water, Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Eng. 126, 221 (2000).
- A. Zavadsky and L. Shemer, Water waves excited by near-impulsive wind forcing, J. Fluid Mech. 828, 459 (2017).
- G. Caulliez, G. Ricci, and R. Dupont, The generation of the first visible wind waves, Phys. Fluids 10, 757 (1998).
- A. Zavadsky and L. Shemer, Investigation of statistical parameters of the evolving wind wave field using a laser slope gauge, Phys. Fluids 29, 056602 (2017).
- J. W. Wright, The wind drift and wave breaking, J. Phys. Oceanogr. 6, 402 (1976).
- K. Hasselmann, On the nonlinear energy transfer in gravity wave spectrum part 1, General theory, J. Fluid Mech. 12, 481 (1962).
- O. M. Phillips, On the generation of waves by turbulent wind, J. Fluid Mech. 2, 417 (1957).
- A. V. Slunyaev, Effects of coherent dynamics of stochastic deep-water waves, Phys. Rev. E 101, 062214 (2020).
- K. Hasselmann, R. K. Raney, W. J. Plant, W. Alpers, R. A. Shuchman, D. R. Lyzenga, C. L. Rufenach, and M. J. Tucker, Theory of synthetic aperture radar ocean imaging: A MARSEN view, J. Geophys. Res. 90, 4659 (1985).
- W. Alpers and C. Bruening, On the relative importance of motion-related contributions to the SAR imaging mechanism of ocean surface waves, IEEE Trans. Geosci. Remote Sens. GE-24, 873 (1986).
- L. Shemer and M. Marom, Estimates of ocean coherence time by an interferometric SAR, Int. J. Remote Sens. 14, 3021 (1993).
- S. Suchandtand and R. Romeiser, X-band sea surface coherence time inferred from bistatic SAR interferometry, IEEE Trans. Geosci. Remote Sens. 55, 3941 (2017).
- P. A. Hwang, H. Garcia-Nava, and F. J. Ocampo-Torres, Observations of wind wave development in mixed seas and unsteady wind forcing, J. Phys. Oceanogr. 41, 2343 (2011).
- M. A. Donelan, W. M. Drennan, and K. B. Katsaros, The air-sea momentum flux in mixed wind sea and swell conditions, J. Phys. Oceanogr. 27, 2087 (1997).